History And Regions
He invented Dumpukth, the 'innovative Awadhi Cuisine", poetry and food. Lucknow is known for its elaborate cuisine, 'chikankaari' (embroidery on muslin cloth) and the 'Pehle Aap' tradition (emotional warmth and high degree of hospitality).
The culinary skills were raised to a fine art under the royal patronage, a favorite pastime of Nawabs of Awadh being perfecting the art of cooking. Awadh region constitutes the area of old Lucknow and Kanpur in U.P.
In olden days, three classes of people were employed in preparing food. The scullions who cleaned enormous pots and dishes worked under bavarchi(cook) , who cooked food in large quantities.
The 'rakabdar', the most expert chef, usually cooked food in small gourmet quantities for the nobility.
People living in Awadh region are basically Muslims who have a great affinity towards rich and heavy dishes, which makes Awadhi food altogether a different affair. Awadhi food is rich in spices and oils. There is more emphasis on finesse of gravies (some are strained to make finer).
Awadh region constitutes the area of old Lucknow and Kanpur of the state Uttar Pradesh. Awadh has been known in the Indian history for reasons told of Awadhis in the freedom struggle of India.
Awadh is also known for its famous Awadhi cuisine in the whole world. Nawab Asifuddaulah, who was one of the rulers of Awadh, was a great connoisseur of good food and it was because of his patronage, Awadhi food came into lime light.
People living in that area are basically Muslim who has a great affinity towards rich and heavy dishes which makes Awadhi food altogether a different affair. Awadhi cuisine is rich in spices and oil.
Staple diet: The staple diet of this region is basically
all those things which are available
in UP. Their staple diet includes: rice,
wheat, meat and vegetables.
Awadhi
meals: meals are classified as under:
1. Breakfast 2. Lunch 3. Dinner
1. Breakfast: Awadhis generally name their breakfast slightly heavy as compared to other meals. The items eaten may include stuffed
parathas, sautéed offal etc.
2. Lunch: Lunch of
the Awadhis constitutes a rich dish with a non veg gravy, a bread and a dessert.
3. Dinner: the
dinner may start with a kebab, which is a delicacy followed by normal courses.
Various
Awadhi dishes:
1. Kebabs: Kebabs are eaten as starters during
the food. Kebabs are a delicacy
and are enjoyed by the people. Kebabs can be made by both chicken or mutton mince. Various kebabs are
1. Seekh
kebab 2. Gulab kebab
3. Shami
kebab 4. Mutton
tikka
5. Tangri kebab
Rice:
Various rice preparations are eaten by people have for example.
1.
Mutton pulao / chicken
pulao
2.
Biryani 3. Plain pulao 4. Vegetable pulao 5. Jeera
pulao etc.
Non veg curries: People in Awadh eat non vegetarian items with great
taste. Mutton preparations
are more popular than chicken or beef item. The
non veg gravies made are very spicy
and full of fat and oil. Floating oil
on the dish is considered to be a delicacy.
Desserts: Awadhis are also usually fond of desserts
as they like non veg item. Various desserts
prepared are
-
Kheer
(vermicelli, rice etc)
- Semiya pulao |
- Sweet rice - |
Pumpkin Halwa |
- Sooji Halwa |
- Aloo halwa - |
Sonpapdi etc. |
Festivals
The festivals celebrated are:
1.
Eid: Eid is celebrated with great pomp and show. Bakr-id is celebrated by cooking
mutton dishes which Eidulzuha is celebrated by
making sweet Semiyas (Vermicelli)
2.
Other festivals
celebrated are Holi, diwali, dussera, janmashtami which are basically celebrated by Hindus and a special dish "PANJIRI" made from coconut, poppy seeds, nuts is prepared.
Awadhi Meals
Breakfast: Generally slightly heavy
as compared to other meals. The items may include stuffed parathas, sauted offals etc.
Lunch: Constitutes rice, non-veg
gravy, a bread, a vegetable
and a dessert. Dinner: Traditionally starts with a Kebab, (starter) followed by normal courses.
The
Bawarchies and Rakabdars by their
expertise of blending spices, achieved
a high degree of finnese in cooking. This
gave birth to Dum style of cooking or the
art of cooking over a slow flame, within sealed containers and preferably heated from the top as well(by live coal)
The Lucknow
'Dastarkhwan' would not be complete
unless it had
1.
Korma: Braised meat in thick gravy.
2.
Salan: A gravy dish of meat and vegetables
3.
Kheema: Minced meat
4.
Kebabs: Ponnded meat cooked
over coal fire.
5.
Bhujia: well cooked vegetables
6.
Dal:
7.
Pasinda: Fried slices of tender meat in gravy.
8.
Pulao:
9.
Rotis: Warqi parathas,roomali, sheermal
etc
10.
Gullatti: Rice pudding
11.
Kheer
12.
Mazaffar: Vermicelli fried
in ghee, sweetened and garnished with
nuts.
13.
Halwas : garnished with balai /malai
14.
kulfi :Indian version of icecream
Nahari is a hot favorite of Awadhi ;and is a meat preparation with thick spicy gravy. In 'paye ki Nahari' bones are cooked and bone juices is mixed with the gravy. It is eaten traditionally with Kulchas.
Lucknowis have an affinity
to pulao than to Biriyanis. There are
some unique techniques in making
Lucknowi pulaos. In 'Yakhni pulao',
a thick meat broth (yakhni) is
prepared in which whole spices are not added directly but wrapped and tied in a muslin cloth and dropped in to the broth. Afterwards, it is taken
out. The rice is then cooked in this broth. And the vessel is sealed to relating the flavour.
The Lucknowi menu changes
with season. The severity of winter is fought with rich food. Paya (trotters) are cooked overnight over slow fire and shorba
(thick gravy) eaten with naans. They prefer fish usually
'rohu' (fresh water). For winter, fish Kebabs cooked in mustard
oil are consumed.Peas
are the most sought after vegetables. Sawan (spring) is celebrated with
pakwan
(wisp snacks)
phulkis (besan pakoras
in
salan)
curamba
(A
dessert
with
raw mangoes
cooked in semolina
and jaggery/sugar) is
eaten in summer,
come from rural Hindu community.
Festivals
The main festivals
are Ramzan (Id ul Fitr),
Id ul Zuha, Holi, Dussera,
Shab e Barat. During
Ramzan, the houses
are busy cooking
throught the day for iftari (feast to end the day's fasting)
for family friends,
and the poor. Id ul zuha is celebrated with mutton dishes and varieties
of siwaiyan (vermicelli) mazaffir. Shab e
barat with various
halwas particularly with
semolina and gram
flour. During
Muharam 'haleem' or
'khichra' ;is the
favourite. The breads
are very popular
throughout Awadh. The test of a good chapathi is that you should be able to see the sky through
it. The dough should be very loose and left in a lagar (deep broad vessel)
filled with water half an hour before chapathis
are made. Sheermals invented by
Mamdoo Bawarchi. No festival is complete
without sheermal.
SOME AWADHI COOKERY
TERMS AND TECHNIQUES:
Dum dena: Cook in a sealed container over slow flame. Live charcoal
is put on the lid as well.
Ghee durusth
Karna:
heating ghee till smoking and flavour with garlic water,
etc.
Lauba jana: Letting the oil flout on top of gravy.
Bhaghar dena: To temper
Dhungar dena: Adding extra flavour
to meat /vegetable by putting
coal and smoking.
Galawt: Kebab
using chikna kheema. Means melting or raw papaya. Done on Mahi tawa.
Kakkori: Done on seeth. Sookha
kheema used.
Moin dena: Incorporate fat (as in puffs) Eg: Warqui, parathas
Ittr /Attar: Flavourings
Kalai: Tin lining given
to copper utensils
to avert toxicity.
Dastarkhwan: Dining area.
Diwan -e-khar - Assembly/dining room for nobles
Diwan-e- am - Assembly
of subjects
Lohe ka Tandoor: Made of copper with kalai. Used traditionally for making sheermal roti.
Some Important Dishes
Shahi Khorma: White, rich and smooth gravy. Yellow chilly powder, an unique
Awadhi ingredient, may be used.
Galawat ke kebab: Made of minced mutton /beef. Maintained
with raw papaya and cooked on a moti tawa . Literally means kebab that melts.
Shammi kebabs: fried
mutton kebabs
Kakori kebab: Cooked on seekh. Lambmeat flavoured
with rose potals
and sweet spices.
Pasanda kebab: Made of big flat pieces of mutton taken preferably from 'thigh'
Murg Mussalam: Chicken stuffed with mince and eggs.
Kundan Kaliyan: Thin fine gravy in which mutton in cooked. Yellow chilli powder
(Kashipura mircha) used. Meat garnished
with sone ki waraq.
Badal jam: Brinjal
and tomato preparation. Dry in consistency.
Tangdi kebabs:Made of chicken drumstick.
Noor Mahal pulao: With yakhni, nuts, saffron, milk, kewra jal and malai.
Mazaffir: Made with sevaiyan.
Kheer: Sweet made of rice, vermicelli etc.
Pumpkin
Halwa, sooji Halwa, Aloo Halwa etc
Some additional information about Lucknow: Lucknowis like mangoes very much. Maliabad is
famous for its' mangos. And they
enjoy the ancient dance form called
'mujrahs' . A special potli masala is used in some
of the Awadhi, dishes which is called
'Lazzat e team'. Though the
traditional combination is a secret
it is said to be made with sweet spices (mace, cardamom, cinnamon). Baobeer,
jarakush(medicinal herbs), chandan
powder, corriander powder etc.
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